Since this Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group restaurant opened in the fall of 2022 in the Pearl retail and residential district, it has expanded its outdoor seating areas around a new water feature and, more importantly, cemented its reputation for excellent and interesting plates. Chef Berty Richter’s menu celebrates the cultures and cuisines of the Mediterranean, particularly Judeo-Spanish—the Ladino—with influences reflecting the route of the Jewish people’s migrations. Dishes often taste as though from antiquity (with emphatic modern treatments): tiny fatty lamb belly ribs, a grilled chicken kebab on a bed of arugula, mint, cilantro, and modern, creamy hummus with whole purple hull peas. Among our favorites: tirshi, a butternut squash and harissa dip. But Ladino is also sleekly contemporary, partially due to the kitchen’s array of aerating and blending technology and cheffy techniques, but also thanks to its striking interior design, its farm-to-table mien, and ever-changing seasonal menu. Whatever you do or don’t order (all is eminently sharable) do not miss the krembo, a dark chocolate, sour cherry, and hazelnut custard layered with shortbread and topped with an ephemeral cap of rosewater marshmallow.
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A menu spanning centuries and celebrating a seldom-seen Mediterranean cuisine.