You go to Margaret’s for the food but stick around for the company. The fare is modern and refined—deviled eggs marbled with beet brine (as much for the tint as the flavor), sardines on toast with a verde sauce (they taste like Amsterdam), grilled carrots, beef bourguignon, salmon with grits. Our favorite entrée is the pasta with Bolognese sauce, which tastes as homemade as you could make it. Our favorite dessert is the Key lime pie, which is simply sublime. The restaurant sits on the first floor of the historic old Brite Building, and with the high ceilings and warm lighting, you feel like you might want to stay awhile. Tables line the wall but the best place to sit is at the horseshoe counter, where it’s easy to have a conversation with your neighbor—who might be a musician from Austin, a Frenchman who moved to town to make art, or a couple from Fort Davis who drove down for dinner (all true stories). The wait staff is eager to talk about life in Marfa; another bottle or glass from the international wine list will get the conversation rolling.