Twice, we attempted to dine at chef-entrepreneur Eyal Shani’s Tel Aviv–based fast-casual chain, which expanded to Deep Ellum in March. And twice, we ended up heading to our car with our arms full of brown paper to-go bags. Why? Because of the ice-cold, mostly vacant dining room thumping with international rap-type music. The few customers we noticed—the space may well be full at other times—were taking refuge on the patio facing Main Street. After deciding we’d rather eat at home, we had a perfectly pleasant wait at the indoor-outdoor bar, sipping an Arak mojito (quite refreshing, with anise and mint). In our own kitchen we got down to business unwrapping a  Candy Steak Pita spread with aioli and stuffed with pickles and layered with seared brisket as tender as you’d find at a decent local barbecue joint. Another sight to behold (and a bite we won’t soon forget) was the Folded Cheese Burger Pita, with a disk of griddled white cheddar bigger than the meat patty (it reminded us of that popular taqueria specialty, a grilled-cheese-covered costra taco). The Out-of-Pita portion of the menu was an object lesson in novelty; we thoroughly enjoyed the charred beetroot “carpaccio,” with super thin–sliced beets, grated horseradish, and crème fraîche. The Run Over Potato, a baked Yukon Gold, came smashed between sheets of wax paper and lavished with garlicky, dill-y sour cream. Desserts were more subtle. Our tatami (imagine Israeli tiramisù) was fashioned from layers of tea biscuits, resulting in a flavor similar to the Middle East’s honey cakes. The malabi—an iconic Israeli rose water milk pudding with “strawberry perfume” and pistachios—made for a lightly sweet, jiggly ending.