Harking back to Hartwood, the open-air, open-fire dining room that put Tulum on the culinary scene, this Mexican-inspired patio restaurant is a culinary country shift for the team behind Lucky Robot. Perhaps inspired by the Hotel Nomade (also in Tulum), where the dining room serves Japanese food, a table on the covered patio is a breezy spot to lounge with a mai tai–inspired cocktail served in a pottery cup. Their skill with seafood shines—a crudo of hamachi was stunning served with an effervescent mezcal-infused foam that brought to mind chawanmushi (Japanese steamed egg custard). Grilled shrimp, accompanied by their tasty heads, had nice heat from a pumpkin seed sauce and crunch from slivers of chayote. Grilled coconut flatbread was surprising in its pleasant chew, and although we enjoyed the slab of swordfish served in a banana leaf, the airline chicken served grilled on a bed of stewed kale accompanied by an earthy, spicy guajillo chile sauce was pure delight. Blue corn tortillas filled with cochinita pibil were fine, but texturally mushy compared to the artful plating of the chicken.
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Vibey Yucatán cuisine in South Austin.