We mourned the closing of the much-loved previous occupant, Maba, but we’re duly delighted with this Chinese bistro’s menu of classic and creative dim sum and its traditional entrées like honey walnut shrimp, Peking duck, and Mongolian beef. It’s fun to settle in with good wine and ask neighboring diners, “What’s that you ordered?” Said inquiries led us to crispy shrimp balls, impressive orbs of crunchy noodles encasing sweet, briny shrimp. We also enjoyed the xiao long bao, pretty pouches of aromatic broth and pork filling. The best of our selections was the shrimp youtiao cheung fun: shrimp and peppers stuffed in crisp cruller, wrapped in a crepe-like noodle, sliced like a sushi roll, and served with sweet and salty soy sauce.