The cuisine of our southern neighbor has crossed stateside but is still rendered with a decidedly frontera vision. Appetizers start well with deep bowls of chorizo and beans paired with house tortilla chips and salsa. From that you might move on to a parillada layered with fajitas, fat sausages, sweetbreads, onions, and sly peppers. Consider the golden folds of the battered chile relleno, weighty with cheese and generous with shrimp, all bathed in a textbook-perfect veracruzana-style sauce. Interior standards like lengua a la mexicana offer homage to the border favorite: unctuous beef tongue tips slow-simmered in a tomato stew and bedded down in red rice and refried beans. Larger appetites should consider the lusty fajita hamburger, made with ground fajita meat and topped with avocado, bacon, cheese, and ham. Room for dessert? Insist on the crisp churros, glistening with cinnamon sugar and ideal for dragging ever so slowly in warm caramel sauce.