The rebirth of this nose-to-tail restaurant in a larger space affords chef Misti Norris a bigger audience for her imaginative, elaborately composed dishes. Melding fermented, sweet, salty, earthy, and umami flavors, Norris’s creations could surprise and delight even the most jaded diner. Don’t miss the Tea Braised Pig Tails, a hearty starter, ironically listed as a “snack.” Rich and tender, the meaty pork chunks were glazed in a reduced, sweet-tea braising liquid and fried—like meat candy. Our version—Norris tweaks it occasionally—came with herbed barley grains, barley-fermented yogurt, fermented barley crackers, tomato mostarda, and tarragon. Charred Comeback Creek Eggplant was another carnival of flavors and textures: salsa negra–glazed, charred eggplant; tender, stewed sherried eggplant; a silky, smoked “toum” (Lebanese garlic sauce) underneath; and fried, candied onion and pickled garlic slices on top. Smoked Sablefish Lasagnette teamed wide ribbons of lemony pasta with an umami-rich koji butter, smoked fish, basil, charred lemon, and crunchy breadcrumbs. Even squares of flourless chocolate cake harmonized with intriguing elements: dots of cherry-infused ganache and spiced chocolate mousse; bits of cherry juice–soaked, compressed red pepper, and crunchy vanilla milk crumbles. A selection of well-chosen, reasonably priced wines is a noteworthy addition to the menu. We’re eager to return.
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Petra and the Beast
Sometimes quirky, sometimes elaborate, Petra and the Beast is a true original.