With its edgy charm and counter service, this casual temple of pork parts and fermented food is an outlier among the city’s best restaurants. Chef Misti Norris’s ever-changing locavore menu could thrill even the most jaded, adventurous diner. We ordered excessively from the list of exciting charcuterie: pig tails, spiced chocolate-laced pâté, ciccioli (compressed fatty pork) flecked with greens, and nduja on focaccia. We fell hard for those pig tails, served over oat porridge strewed with sweet compressed apple, crunchy oat crumbles, radish, and opal basil. The black tea–braised tail chunks were delicious—unctuous meat, loosening from crispy caramelized skin—and the team of textures and flavors in the bowl united for a mind-blowing combo. Pappardelle with pork sugo—and even a kale salad—wowed us too. We made pigs of ourselves, then we ordered dessert. No regrets.