This cult spot has reopened after last summer’s city-mandated closure to revamp the smoke-handling system—that’s got to tell you something about the grilled chicken. Its large (but not large enough) low-ceilinged dining room is almost always packed with families, office workers, sports teams, and even foodie tourists, while a line of the eager unseated crowds the anteroom and spills out the door. No doubt the Mexican plates and fajitas are good, but we, like much of the crowd, can’t get past the grilled chicken: moist, fragrant with smoke, with beans, rice, and grilled onions and jalapeños on the side. It’s as close on este lado to any you’d find along the highway to Saltillo. If the line is too long, get your food to go, drive a few blocks to Comanche Park, and spread out on the picnic tables under the pecan trees.