Thalis—“a little bit of everything,” says the menu—make a good introduction to this mainstay of the Houston Indian scene. The Konkan version offered spicy vindaloo ribs, sautéed greens, dal, and taro root fries, all of which worked well (except for the gristly Goa pork). Alone worth the trip are the grilled paneer kebabs (you load the cheese into cups of butter lettuce and then dip them into a chile, honey, and ginger sauce). The mellowness of the cheese, smoke from the grill, and spicy sauce with anise made for a fabulous combo. Breakfasts are the stuff of legend.