Three years proved a long time to wait for our favorite road-trip destination to reopen. With its thorough kitchen renovation, the tiny, no-frills cafe near Denton that’s famous for feeding everyone from Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway to Meat Loaf may be better than ever now. Our flawless chicken-fried steak arrived with a burnished, fluffy, pepper-flecked crust surrounding a thin, fork-tender slice of beef; it was served with skin-on mashed potatoes and green beans rich with onion and bacon. Overcooked a tad, our T-bone steak was nevertheless flavorful, with redemption riding alongside in freshly stewed zucchini and tomatoes. A long wait at the table was tolerable, thanks to expertly prepared fried green tomatoes and light-as-clouds yeast rolls. Save room for made-that-morning coconut meringue pie or lattice-topped rhubarb pie, prominently displayed in a case atop the front counter. Daily lunch specials include green chile stew and chicken and dumplings.