Legendary are the travelers who route themselves through this little town just to eat at this unexpected oasis. The exceptional food comes from immensely talented chef Laurie Williamson (who just opened a new steakhouse next door and whose B&B, Rancho Loma, brings gourmands from all over the state). Order this to go: Pizzas, of course! From the wood-fired oven come crispy, bubbly crusts given traditional treatments, such as the margherita (crushed tomato, mozzarella, Parm, and basil), and clever creations like the pie topped with béchamel, fontina, white truffle oil, prosciutto, and wild arugula. Excellent non-pie choices include roasted sweet piquillo chiles, oozing melted goat cheese, and hefty, textured meatballs in a tomato sauce bath. Pro tip: Smart packaging ensures that nothing wilts; the arugula on that pizza is boxed separately, as are salad dressings.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.