Serving up big and bold flavors, this iconic west Texas steakhouse, housed in a converted barn, has refined the art of ranch-inspired cooking. We sat down to an appetizer of savory bacon-wrapped jalapeño bites, then moved on to a juicy, flavorful strip steak perfectly encrusted with peppercorns. Equally satisfying was the wonderfully spicy grilled Cajun catfish. Side dishes include an earthy green chile–hominy casserole and the signature Zucchini Perini, the green rounds baked in an Italian meat sauce and sprinkled with Parmesan. The whiskey-soaked sourdough bread pudding makes a filling dessert, as does the jalapeño jelly–glazed cheesecake topped with a whole chile. The open dining room can be noisy; sitting in a booth helps a little.