Billing itself as a supper club (no connection to the local newspaper), this former sports bar tucked between a beer hall and a bunch of bars is going for old-school vibes. A glowing, brass-topped bar dominates the front room, and a smaller, more intimate dining area is off to the side. (This is where the much-ballyhooed tables with champagne-delivery buttons are located.) We skipped the bubbles and had a serviceable cocktail with fresh basil and some sublime New Brunswick oysters with horseradish and mignonette presented in a rather twee eye dropper. The menu appears to have changed since opening; a dish of grilled chicken cutlets topped with cold cucumber and tomato salad seemed to have replaced a two-part chicken preparation with both Parmesan cutlets and an “airline” breast. Grilled lamb chops were a bit chewy, but the cacio e pepe pasta was but a whisper. Chili-crisp-topped broccolini was unexpected and reminded us of chef Dan Kennedy’s tenure at the Goan-inspired hotel restaurant Vixen’s Wedding (now closed). We also enjoyed the heat in a smear of pepper-flecked butter atop the platonic ideal of Parker House rolls. It’s obvious that the kitchen has some muscle; the physical environs and plating might need to catch up to what’s pictured on the website.