White tablecloths, complimentary dinner rolls, and quiet music (jazz, pop classics) are old-school values that keep this comfy bistro afloat even after decades in business. A few rough details in the starters (flavorful but overdressed arugula salad with cranberries) were forgotten with the arrival of a golden-brown mahimahi filet with sage lemon butter sided by a sensational butternut squash puree. Four rosy-rare lamb chops had us gnawing them down to the bone and grabbing those rolls to mop up lingering drops of herby za’atar-spiced oil. Our meal’s highlight was a gorgeous and bargain-priced dessert trio: crème brûlée, flourless chocolate cake, and lemon curd in a meringue cup.