When a dining companion punched in garlic bread as a starter while ordering on our phones at Wriggly Tin, a new, no-tipping pizzeria and brewery in South Dallas, we questioned the necessity of bread before pizza. But then the slices of warm, cheesy sourdough focaccia arrived, topped with whole cloves of roasted garlic and accompanied by a thick red sauce for dipping, and we quickly changed our opinion. Our starter of choice, the Little Gem salad, was a tower of those sweeter and smaller leaves of lettuce, dressed up with Dijon vinaigrette and layered with thinly sliced radishes, toasted walnuts, and herby sprigs of dill and parsley. Thick shavings of ricotta salata, a naturally salty sheep’s milk cheese, were a nice touch. The main show (although we still wonder if it wasn’t the garlic bread) was chef Desmon Coleman’s New York–style thin-crust sourdough pizza, which we dipped into creamy dill ranch and olive oil–garlic sauce while dreaming up plans to return to the hip patio on a sunnier day in the future with our dogs in tow. The beers brewed on-site by co-owner Aaron Garcia are yet another attraction, and the ice used in the soft drinks and some of the cocktails rivals Sonic’s, the national gold standard of ice. The circa-1940s Quonset hut makes a spacious and airy venue.