I love the food here in Boston, for sure, but sometimes a Texan just has to have a really good taco (for a multitude of ideas, see Pat’s story from the December 2006 issue). Hence, I have set out to find the best taco in town, perhaps a mission impossible in these parts? I am trying, nonetheless.

I ended up at a foodie-recommended (ex-Texans included) Mexican-Salvadoran hole-in-the-wall. With minimal decor, aside from some Christmas lights and religious artwork, and Ludicrous playing in the foreground, this was a picture-perfect cheap college eats spot—it could even pass for something in Austin…with a New England twist. The food? The beans looked, and smelled, less like the familiar and more like a foreshadowing of bad consequences to come. The rice had the right appearance but the flavor, eek. I’ll be sticking to Chinatown rice.

But the important part: the tacos. While chicken and pork were bland and overcooked—I think Taco Cabana would win out easily—the beef tacos were shockingly impressive. “Wows” were mumbled between mouthfuls; the slightly sweet, smoky meat went perfectly with the cilantro-heavy pico. Who’da thunk? Though this spot is a bit out of our way, and Texas it ain’t, I may make it home away from home for the beef taco alone. And the perennial Christmas lights.

I hear there’s a good taco place in a gas station. Cousin to Fuel City, here I come. Stay tuned …