This is what Pulitzer prize-winning food journalist Jonathan Gold wrote on Dec. 27, 2009. “While nobody was paying attention, food quietly assumed the place in youth culture that used to be occupied by rock ‘n’ roll–individual, fierce and intensely political, communal yet congenial to aesthetic extremes: embracing veganism or learning to butcher a cow; eating tofu or head cheese, bean sprouts or pigs’ ears. I could happily go the rest of my life without hearing about another celebrity potato farmer or rock-star butcher, about 15-year-old cheddar or 150-year-old Madeira. And I am not alone. ” I second that emotion, Mr. Gold! There is much to be said for the glorious enthusiasm of youth.