<p><span><span></span></span></p><span><span>HILLSBORO: Up in Smoke BBQ</span><br><span>2700 I 35 Hwy Sw</span><br><span>Hillsboro, TX 76645 </span><br><span>254-582-0105 </span><br><span>Open 11-8 Daily</span></span><br><br>Update 2009: This joint has <span>MOVED</span> down the highway to Abbot, Texas, and still isn't any better.<br><br>This joints serves nothing worth writing about. I didn't even feed the leftovers to the dog.<br><br>Rating *<br><p><span><span><span></span></span><p></p></span></p><br><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/301/1274766/restaurant/Texas/Up-In-Smoke-BBQ-Hillsboro"><img alt="Up In Smoke BBQ on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1274766/minilogo.gif"></a>

You gotta give Andy Zubik props. Not only does he create fabulous breakfast and lunch items at his trailer, Zubik House, he’s also unbelievably friendly and kind. Take this recent interaction, which I witnessed at the downtown farmer’s market on Saturday: Grumpy lady with two toddlers: Gimme two kolaches. Andy: We’re fresh out of everything except the margherita. Grumpy lady: Does it taste like a margarita or have alcohol in it? Because I’ve got two kids, if you haven’t noticed, and that’s totally unacceptable. Andy (smiling genuinely): Oh, I’m sorry. No, margherita like the pizza. Grumpy lady (scowling): I don’t know what you’re talking about. I’ve never heard of that. (Megan turns to look incredulously, thinking, “Who is this fool?”) Andy: You know, with tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella, all locally made or organic. Grumpy lady: Whatever. Gimme two of them. And then, kolaches and kids in hand, she disappeared back into the scorching heat from whence she came. I wish I could say that the margherita kolaches were the highlight of the morning. Made from scratch with organic flour, the dough was sweet, chewy, and perfect. But the mozzarella was nowhere to be found, and I counted only five or six bits of tomato and a few strips of basil. It was basically a big breadstick, which, although not bad, was disappointing. The Czech Benedict, however, was a different story: Czech toast, barbecue pork shoulder or sausage (your choice), and an over easy farm-fresh egg sprinkled with Italian herbs. Given that it was already 90 plus degrees outside, I felt myself melting as quickly as the egg yolk was running into the juicy shredded pork and griddle-toasted bread. But despite the temperature, in less than ten minutes, I had devoured this little baby. I topped the whole thing off with a peach-ginger lemonade from Fête Accompli and almost collapsed out of happiness (or was that heatstroke?). And remember, the early bird gets the Benedict. When I arrived at eleven, Zubik House had sold out of almost everything. I’m hurrying back to try the barbecue brisket kolaches and, when they’re in season, the fried strawberries. (If you’re not downtown and can’t live without Czech trailer food, Zubik House also sells kolaches at the Sunset Balley farmer’s market on Saturdays and at Clark’s gas station, off 2222 and Balcones, Tuesday through Friday.)