There can be no doubt that this is a guy place. Leather, wood, and heads of cattle (taxidermied as well as skeletal) dominate. But the menu plays a lighter tune, particularly the oyster “nachos”: crisply fried shellfish on chips with cotija cheese crumbles and habanero sauce. On the heavier side is the excellent elk and bison meat loaf, a bacon-bound circle of goodness atop a pillow of mashed potatoes with the kick of a powerful tomato jam. Servers are very pleasant, but it’s best not to be in a hurry.