The current menu swings a wide lasso around North America: Louisiana shrimp and grits (big crustaceans in a chipotle-flavored “Colorado” butter), Columbia River salmon, West Texas quail. We went south of the border with a sweet potato–stuffed chile relleno and oyster nachos, crisp crackers topped with succulent cornmeal-battered bivalves and sided by a mild habanero sauce. Young and attentive staffers had recommendations from the lengthy wine list, which we needed for the main courses. Tacos, topped by fancy-sounding “bavette” (similar to flank steak), brought pink-hearted beef with a blackened and peppery crust to the party, along with a spicy tomato sauce, grilled tomatoes, and cotija crumbles. Out in the bracing night air, bright stars were the only lights beyond the tiny town in the big, dark desert.