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Dining Guide

12 Gage

The current menu swings a wide lasso around North America: Louisiana shrimp and grits (big crustaceans in a chipotle-flavored “Colorado” butter), Columbia River salmon, West Texas quail. We went south of the border with a sweet potato–stuffed chile relleno and oyster nachos, crisp crackers topped with succulent cornmeal-battered bivalves and sided by a mild habanero sauce. Young and attentive staffers had recommendations from the lengthy wine list, which we needed for the main courses. Tacos, topped by fancy-sounding “bavette” (similar to flank steak), brought pink-hearted beef with a blackened and peppery crust to the party, along with a spicy tomato sauce, grilled tomatoes, and cotija crumbles. Out in the bracing night air, bright stars were the only lights beyond the tiny town in the big, dark desert.

City: Marathon

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$$

Rating: ★★★★

Address: 102 NW 1st (Highway 90W), Marathon, TX, 79842

Hours: D 7 days.

Phone: 432-386-4205

Website: www.gagehotel.com

Last updated: January 7, 2020