Chef Stephan Pyles, a fifth-generation Texan and James Beard Award winner, brings soul—alma, in Spanish—to Hill Country fare in a spacious new restaurant attached to a ritzy condo building in Georgetown’s Sun City. But the menu’s excursions to Spain and Latin America are especially rewarding. Don’t try picking which ceviche—the salmon, shrimp, or ahi tuna—you should have as an appetizer: order the sampler and enjoy all three. While turf entrées are available (a honey-fried rotisserie chicken, bacon-wrapped meat loaf), the standouts are in the surf part of the menu, such as the Chilean sea bass, served atop a crab ceviche alongside beautifully crisped papas verdes. The wine list is comprehensive, with a strong selection of Texas labels, but the cocktails are ingenious, whether you want something refreshing (Luckenbach Lemonade, with bourbon and vodka) or what just might be the spiciest concoction in Central Texas, the Piña Diablo (rum, fermented pineapple, lots of serrano, mint, vanilla, cinnamon, and brown sugar). Were it not for the carpeted floor and cheap-feeling laminate tables, you could forget you’re dining in a retirement community.
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Chef Stephan Pyles brings soul to Hill Country fare in Georgetown.