The latest outpost from a Chicago concept, this newbie in the Shops at Clearfork has that all-things-to-all-people approach—and meets the challenges therein. We like the shareables, such as the one-pound Angry Meatball, a huge ground-wagyu sphere covered with spicy tomato sauce and a scattering of ricotta. Grilled artichokes are cut in half, slathered in olive oil, cooked over an open fire, and served with addictive rémoulade. Lettuce wraps, packed with fried oysters and topped with crunchy toasted peanuts and bits of mango, get plentiful flavor and texture contrast in a spicy slaw accompaniment. An Asian bowl found a perfect blend of stir-fried broccoli, mushrooms, and carrots mingling with lo mein (but, alas, topped with a grilled salmon filet that could have been a bit less dry). The sprawling space feels welcoming, but the loud music forces shouting.
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Doc B’s Fresh Kitchen
The all-things-to-all-people approach actually works at this Clearfork spot.