El Capataz is a favorite stomping ground for locals and visitors alike. The menu reads like a salute to the Americas with a touch of the Mediterranean thrown in to keep things interesting. Gulf drum (corvina) is elevated with a dynamite lemon oil–garbanzo puree, sautéed peas and artichokes. Peruvian ceviche—much more varied than Mexican—features tuna accompanied by roasted corn, chunky sweet potato, and a marinade heady with aji amarillo (that’s a South American chile). Fish tacos are among the city’s best, dressed with a house remoulade and stuffed with crisp cabbage and radish. Burger lovers will appreciate the distinctive El Capataz, a half pound of Angus beef giddy with chorizo-spiked Swiss cheese, grilled mushrooms, and escabeche onions. Pace yourself so you’ll have room for sopaipillas, puffy dough clouds sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and topped with piloncillo-infused honey (and sided by vanilla bean–laced ice cream). Rotating craft beers and drinks add to the celebratory mood. .