The only Ukrainian restaurant that we’ve encountered in San Antonio has a story as engaging as its food. In 2022, Ukrainian-born Olga Veretelnik and her husband Simon Gutierrez, then recent transplants from Portland, Oregon, opened a bright green food truck. Soon, the owners found themselves not only serving the food of her native country but also taking donations and employing and feeding refugees who had fled the war. This spring they were able to move into a permanent location in a small shopping center in the Castle Hills area, a pleasant, sunny room with a mural of fluffy white clouds floating across a blue sky. There, Veretelnik is cooking with fresh vegetables and organic proteins. We had their borscht, not beet-based but instead a rich and hearty chicken and cabbage soup. Cabbage appears again in a crisp salad that accompanies the fantastic chicken skewers—two large ones to an order, smoky and tender. Equally rewarding—cumin-accented lamb dumplings (chicken and beef also available). A piece of medovyk, a rich and dense honey cake, finishes the meal in fine Ukrainian style.