For ten years, Gemma has prevailed on construction-prone Henderson Avenue with seasonal menus bound by a few constants, like the complimentary soft scones with bits of dried figs and a thick cube of salted butter. Whole shrimp sheathed by light, tempura-fried squash blossoms were a strong start for dinner on a hot day. A crimson, roasted romesco blended with hazelnuts electrified the perfect snack. Also expertly prepared were the jumbo sea scallops with chopped green beans and sliced purple fingerling potatoes laid over a spoonful of coconut milk with a Thai chili gastrique. It’s difficult to decide whether it was the gastrique or the entire dish that needed another dash of vinegar and Thai chili, however. The rigatoni with fresh summer corn and cornbread crumbles also would have benefited from larger and spicier crumbles of Italian sausage. A pleasant finale was the strawberry panna cotta with a smear of rhubarb sauce and crumbles of candied hazelnut. We longed for a few more flecks of the promised basil.