After ten years, this East Dallas favorite got a tasteful makeover. The dining room feels roomier and more comfortable, with mustard-toned banquettes lining a forest green wall hung with mirrors. The menu got refreshed, too. Joining old mainstays—like the pappardelle with braised rabbit and the fried Castelvetrano olives—are a slew of new crowd pleasers, including bistro favorites, pastas, steaks, and chops. Our starter was a hit: spicy salmon tartare, enlivened with a milky coconut vinegar dressing, cilantro, and two paper-thin chile slices (the flavors were fresh and delicious but not really spicy). Buccatini all’amatriciana, prepared with house-made pasta and guanciale, succeeded as a zesty Italian classic. Game fans will enjoy the duck frites; the rich and rosy duck breast came with a light green-peppercorn sauce, herbed green salad, and crispy herbed frites. Our dessert was a heavenly white chocolate–matcha semifreddo; tangy pomegranate seeds and orange supremes were bright foils to its creamy richness, and crisp honey-sparked crumbles brought a crunchy counterpoint. With deft hands in the kitchen, Gemma remains a reliable and charming neighborhood bistro.