Coastal cuisine has always been landlocked here, but Mariscana turns the tide. Order this to go: Try the ritual bienvenida of ceviche bright with citrus, shrimp, and fiery roasted Sonoran chiles. Enjoy the queso tatemado, refried beans topped with seared panela and slathered with smoky salsa. Aguachile verde is a cheerful layering of shrimp, cucumbers, and onions splashed with a lime-based marinade. Pro tip: Of the seafood tacos, those offering tempura-fried shrimp and slaw tucked into durable workman-style corn tortillas are our favorite.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.