The coastal menu here revisits, revives, and refreshes the standards. There’s a subtle sports-bar vibe here, but that can spike seasonally, of course, and paquetes, preset beer and snack packages, rule. We’ll take the ceviche, always a barometer of quality in a landlocked city. It’s heavy with shrimp or fish and punctuated with Sonoran chiles and bright citrus notes. Six types of seafood tacos offer dizzying variations on salsas, cheese, and grilled veggie options. A hearty, buttery scallop soup is heady with green salsa and dotted with plump pozole. Our shrimp cocktail was deceptively deep and cheekily named Levanta Muertos (Raise the Dead). We find the Camarones al Samurai an addictive oddity: puffy fried shrimp glazed with a sweet chile-soy sauce, served up sleekly in a chilled martini glass. Save room for the mussels, sautéed in Negra Modelo beer and dressed with ham, onion, tomato, and bright basil.
Hours: L & D Mon–Sat.
Last updated: September 4, 2017