Dining Guide

LeRoy & Lewis

The siren call of smoked meat brings young parents with ebullient toddlers, seniors with winsome dogs, and pretty much every age in between to trailers scattered in empty lots throughout the city. This one, helmed by Evan LeRoy, the former pitmaster at Freedmen’s, is definitely attracting the Instagrammers, who snap pictures and sample less traditional cuts of meat smoked to unctuousness. Saturday is old-school-brisket day, and the bark-crusted, heavily peppered meat is primo. Although just 11:30 a.m. on our visit, they were already fresh out of beef ribs; we sighed wistfully watching other diners gnawing on the bones. Tri-tip, a nod to California Santa Maria–style barbecue, was a bit tough but plenty beefy; we preferred it studding a garlicky fried-rice side dish. Sandwiches get served up on sweet Martin’s potato rolls and come with pickled garden vegetables.