The folks behind Shinsei have branched out, and they appear to be on the right track. We loved the New Orleans gumbo, a mix of ocean morsels in a rich roux, and weren’t at all disappointed with the pricey lobster roll, Maine style, with copious bits of tender meat and chilled mayo laced with tarragon. Soothing hues of pale green and yellow give the small room a relaxed feel.