Houston native Travis McShane returns home in triumph from New York and opens a spot worthy of his star chef status. Order this to go: Simple and simply superb is the huge half chicken au jus spiked with lime. Three juicy, tender, harissa-bathed whole shrimp traveled well in their shells and tasted great; also good were al dente fusilli with pistachio pesto and burrata and sections of corn on the cob, charred and oh so sweet, touched with aioli and pecorino. Pro tip: Pull up near the valet, who will direct you to a parking spot. Then either go in or ask for your food to be brought to your car.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.