Contemporary but still cozy in spirit, this trattoria and neighborhood gathering spot makes us glad we left the house. Even basic dishes are special under chef Scott Lewis, who elevates house-made ricotta and sourdough with sea salt, olive oil, and thyme, as well as roasted chicken in salsa verde with carrots in brown butter and sage and brussels sprouts with honey and lime. Pasta is never more lush than the fusilli dusted with saffron and tumbled with lamb ragù and pecorino. Pan-grilled halibut in a sauce of leeks, shishitos, olives, and capers begged for more of that sourdough for mop-up duty. Impossibly delicate cannoli stuffed with fluffy ricotta and crushed pistachios get touches of chocolate ganache and orange marmalade. We like lingering over the last glass of wine and admiring the locally made ceramic plates adorning the wall in the bar.