With the opening of a stylish new upstairs dining room and the advent of reservations, we no longer fight the crowds always packing this spot alongside the Trinity River trails. Also, thanks to magnificent views of surrounding green ranchland through giant windows, the experience of tucking into owner-chef Felipe Armenta’s new bouillabaisse is extra-special. Spicy with chiles de arbol mixed in with saffron, white wine, paprika, and fennel, the stew’s lush bath is filled with simmered mussels, scallops, shrimp, and crab legs; the accompanying sourdough plank is essential for sopping. Tender farro, quinoa, and green tea–steeped rice combine in the Ancient Grain Rice Bowl, mixed with avocados and a changing assortment of fresh vegetables in a spicy soy glaze; we like ours topped with seared scallops.