A stately Victorian house has been transformed into a many-roomed contemporary restaurant, where clever drawers in each table hold napkins, utensils, and readers. To start, get the spunky breaded whole soft-cooked duck egg on a bed of salty, mildly smoky mushrooms. Another good option: lovely, if slightly too al dente, heirloom carrots atop coriander-spiked yogurt chutney and mezcal-marinated raisins. For a main course, skip the too-mature braised lamb with slouchy ricotta cakes. Instead, try the fine modern jambalaya with andouille, cornmeal-fried oysters, and sautéed shrimp. A springy blackberry-fennel compote on lemony pound cake succeeded despite in-your-face goat-feta ice cream.
Cuisine: New American