The much-loved French restaurant in a vine-covered cottage near Fort Worth’s museum district is back where it belongs. Well, actually, it never left, but it did close for a bit while owner Bernard Tronche put his energy into opening a new restaurant, Paris 7th, three blocks down the street. Now that that’s up and running, he has trained his focus on 33-year-old Saint-Emilion, returning it to the casual bistro format it had when it first opened, in 1985. Loyal customers are elated. The classic French repertoire is done with panache: mussels in a novel Gewürztraminer broth (excellent frites on the side, of course), a daily changing fish filet in any number of preparations (meunière, dijonnaise), and a hefty and beautifully cooked filet of beef with a two-peppercorn cognac cream sauce. Gnocchi a la Parisienne are buttery under an emphatic sear, and the snails in a winey beef consommé are fabulous. Oh, and the well-priced wine list features many interesting bottles from smaller, mostly European vineyards.
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Sophisticated yet informal, this bastion of French cuisine has pleased generations of cultured palates.