An unexpected wait sent us to the bar, but the time passed quickly with the help of a Bluebird (blueberry vodka, blue curaçao, and Sprite). An order of Texas Twinkies also provided patience-boosting diversion: large jalapeños smoked on the grill and stuffed with brisket and “diablo cheese” in a bacon wrapper, served with a lemony herb dip. While cellphone research into the validity of the Barbara Bush credit on the “Barbara Bush’s Fried Green Beans” proved futile, we nonetheless enjoyed the crisply breaded veggies. Once seated amid antique guns, game trophies, and an antler chandelier, we splurged on the smoked prime rib sandwich (the restaurant is renowned for its smoking prowess) but were surprised by the unusual texture of the shaved meat, so soft and tender that we asked the waitress only half-jokingly if we had been served a plant-based version of beef. Our dining companions were very satisfied, however, with their 14-ounce ribeye and Cajun-style smothered catfish. There’s live music on the weekend (the first edition of this restaurant is fifteen miles to the north, in Lindale, the hometown of country star Miranda Lambert).