Entrepreneur and designer Chris Hill (who also owns the Esquire tavern) has given this distinctive space a second try and this time, the concept is definitely working. His previous Asian concept paved the way for this den of more than 20 Japanese whiskies plus Asian beers bolstered by a highly eclectic food menu that’s also tinged with Asian flavors and influences. Our favorite dish on a recent visit was the Japanese fried chicken, brightened with sprinkles of furikake (a savory-sweet sesame seasoning) and with a pronounced lemony tartness in the breading. Crispy eggs—a lighter, brighter version of Scotch eggs—were fine but a bit bland compared to other dishes. Dessert choices change from time to time, but if you can get the excellent ouzo tart (like a lemon curd), do be aware that it is rich enough for four. Also be aware that because of the restaurant’s success and its rather small dining room—even with a line of bar stools down one aisle—the reservation system is persnickety. Don’t be late (you’ll want extra parking time as the street is under construction), be sure all members of your party are present, and don’t dawdle (time limits apply). None of those rules seemed to hinder the youthful, cocktail-forward, spiffily dressed early evening crowd that filled the attractive room on our visit.