Z Beat Goes On
First there was Zolon. Now, just around the corner, comes sister restaurant Zoë-Italian. Fort Worth is the lucky recipient of the first two in a projected series of dining places from the restless imaginations of chef-owner Zolon Wilkins III and chef Carl MacPherson. Whereas Zolon offers a variety of cuisines in a casual bistro setting, Zoë is a pure Italian ristorante with a sophisticated, modern look. My friends and I were so struck by the design—a soaring sky-blue ceiling, warm woods, massive concrete columns—that we could hardly focus on the menu. But when we did, we were rewarded with a wonderfully simple combination of linguine and clams tossed with sautéed onions and bell peppers, a crisp-crusted pizza topped with wafer-thin grilled vegetables drizzled in a balsamic dressing, veal saltimbocca that would have benefited from less salt and cheese and more sage, and a fantastic lemon panna cotta that was the apotheosis of cream. Wilkins hopes to take both Zoë-Italian and Zolon beyond Fort Worth. After that, well, he has other ideas in the oven.

Enjoy this recipe for Open-Faced Ravioli and Balsamic Roasted Chicken With Black Olive-Tomato Butter from Zoë-Italian, Fort Worth.