As Azteca dancers approached a waiting crowd of onlookers at Austin’s annual Viva la Vida Festival—the city’s largest Día de los Muertos celebration—earlier this fall, the ayoyote shells on their ankles rattled.
Clad in feathered headdresses and regalia featuring the skulls or pelts of coyotes or jaguars, Azteca dancers (also known as Concheros) participate in a pre-Columbian tradition as a way of maintaining or rediscovering a connection with their indigenous roots. Popularized during the Chicano movement of the sixties and seventies, Azteca dance grew with the creation of hundreds of groups throughout Mexico and in Mexican American communities in the United States. Their motions and rhythms represent the survival of centuries of colonization and cultural suppression.
Near the Mexic-Arte Museum in Austin, dozens of Aztecas came together to dance down Congress Avenue. Propelled forward by the heartbeat of a drum, every aspect of the dance is intentional. Different movements are meant to mimic the natural world by evoking the wind or rain, and the colors of each costume represent sacred elements including fire, earth, and water. Typically, the dancers are surrounded by a haze of smoke created by burning copal, an aromatic tree resin. This is meant to symbolize the sun—the creator of life.
Ortega Velasquez often chooses to depict himself as the jaguar during performances because “it’s the strongest warrior in Aztec culture.”
Photograph by Cat Cardenas
While some dancers have participated in the annual parade for years, others made their debut in October. “It makes me feel connected to the earth,” says dancer Paola Zuniga. “For me, it’s about appreciating the blessings that god gives us."
Photograph by Cat Cardenas
Many Aztecas dance barefoot, either as a form of sacrifice or as a way of connecting with the earth. They fasten ayoyotes—hard shells from the ayoyote tree—to their ankles and wrists. These act as a percussive instrument while the dancers’ movements are meant to mimic the sound of rain.
Photograph by Cat Cardenas
Traditionally, Azteca dancers have earned their feathers (from macaws) one by one, one after each performance. Though ancient Aztec headdresses made use of feathers from birds indigenous to Mexico, modern-day Aztecas often incorporate long brown-and-gold pheasant feathers.
Photograph by Cat Cardenas
Azteca dances are intended as a celebration of Earth and its creations, but they’re also storytelling devices. Because of this, many dancers emulate or take on the characteristics of certain animals in service of the story. Aided by musical instruments or elements of their costume, the dancers transform into animals like parrots or jaguars.
Photograph by Cat Cardenas
Martin Tapia of Austin has been dancing for ten years, but he says he still has much to learn. "Wherever we dance, we're using that time to show people our culture," he says. "We're celebrating the fact that we're still alive, we're still standing, even if our temples, our customs, our way of life was destroyed. Our roots keep sprouting."
Photograph by Cat Cardenas
For years, Guillermina Ortiz had been gathering the courage to join an Azteca dance group. Originally from Nuevo Laredo, Mexico, she had seen a few of the groups since moving to Austin and finally joined one this year, performing for the first time at the Viva la Vida Parade in October. “It was beautiful,” she says. “I could be so tired, but after going to dance, I feel so alive.”
Photograph by Cat Cardenas
Many dancers hope to pass the tradition on to their children.
