For more than a dozen years, casual, family-oriented Hilda’s has been dispensing Tex-Mex classics like piled-high chalupas, tart and tangy shredded chicken–filled enchiladas verdes, pork-stuffed tacos al pastor, and nine different versions of gorditas. But we want to put in a good word for the crispy-crusted chicken-fried steak we had on our last visit to the all-day diner: fork-tender, perfectly seasoned, and out of the ordinary for this easy-going local eatery. (It’s not on the online menu, so we suspect it was a special.) We’ll keep coming back for the fine house-made tortillas and chips, the breakfast tacos, and the puffy dessert sopaipillas, but it’s nice to see some variety too.