Make sure you turn south off Richmond onto Wakeforest Avenue or you will miss Money Cat entirely and, thus, you will have rolled past some of the most inventive food in town. The place is hidden, dark, and unassuming but also comfortable and bustling, and chef-owner Sherman Yeung (of Tobiuo) and his able staff deliver dishes that raise eyebrows and produce smiles. We began with the Tomato Garden, a “pot” of heirloom tomatoes, squid ink soil (!), and black-garlic cheese “foam,” and we finished with the Nashi Kakigori: a mountain of “pear snow” with mochi, pear sorbet, corn ice cream, and honeycomb candy. In between, we loved the simple madai (golden bream) sashimi; the subtle Hama Nashi roll, which combined hamachi, compressed Asian pear, and cilantro lime kosho (perhaps the best maki we’ve had); the delicate Hotate Coco, featuring Hokkaido scallops, cara cara orange, coconut milk, and chile oil; and (a staff favorite) the Maitake Karaage, a mushroom tempura take on Buffalo wings. A bonus? The cocktails are just as adventurous.
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Sherman Yeung is serving some of the most inventive Japanese food in town.