A spirited “welcome back” to popular Houston chef Philippe Schmit (Bistro Moderne, Philippe Restaurant) and co-founder Sébastien Laval. This new place offers classic French dishes with some welcome twists, like a burrata “salad” served in a glass, a vibrant jumble of cherry tomatoes, a surprising broccoli puree, and creamy cheese. Asparagus pesto delivers oomph to three huge salmon medallions with zucchini gratin, and the Childhood Chicken Wings (nothing similar was ever part of our youth) turn out to be wings confited in duck fat, then deboned, finished with garlic butter, and arrayed atop a long, hollowed-out marrowbone (bite-size toasts come alongside for mopping up). Steak frites translate as a thin but still juicy ribeye with béarnaise, sided by crisp fries. The setting is traditional: white tablecloths, attractive mirrors, a low-lit back dining area, and a long bar in the front room.  Desserts include a beautifully airy Grand Marnier soufflé.