Chef Eric Hunter, who arrived during the pandemic, has transformed this steakhouse at the Midland Hotel into a surprising dining destination. Smoked turkey necks with hot sauce–braised collard greens redefine luxurious soul food. And assorted grilled wild mushrooms—with crisp asparagus spears and a garnish of a perfect poached egg—left a lasting impression, as did juicy fried chicken with a crunchy, red chile–spiked crust. The bed of handmade cavatelli pasta, crowned with the creamy house ricotta, was bite-for-bite worthy of the braised beef short rib.