Since the day it opened in a stylishly converted church almost two years ago, Mark’s has been garnering hallelujahs from Houston diners. In particular, they sing the praises of chef-owner Mark Cox’s novel variation on all-American meat and potatoes. Instead of beef, he slices a whole roasted pork tenderloin into succulent little medallions and drizzles them with a dark, deeply flavored sauce of soy, sake, fresh ginger, and garlic. The accompanying twice-baked stuffed potatoes get a boost from butter, sour cream, white cheddar, and nuggets of broccoli and cauliflower. Is the combination utterly satisfying? We say amen. Mark’s American Cuisine, 1658 Westheimer Rd., Houston. (713) 523-3800.

Try this recipe for Ginger Soy Pork Tenderloin from Mark’s, Houston.