Northeast Texas may be populated with more pine trees than people, but at three in the afternoon, this small shack, located about a quarter mile off Main Street, was brimming with locals ordering the hickory-smoked brisket, served in a broth of beef juices and savory barbecue sauce. The crackly crust on the wet-rubbed pork ribs was a perfect complement to the tender, pink meat below the surface. Skip the mushy potato salad.
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