Unless otherwise noted, all places take credit cards.ABILENE: Harold’s Pit Bar-B-Q We didn’t catch pitmaster Harold Christian singing gospel songs to his customers, but we’re told that isn’t an unusual occurrence. This cozy little room, packed with nine picnic tables, seven booths, and a congregation of athletic trophies, is where
PLAINS AND FANCY You have to admire any chef in the vastness of rural Texas who decides to buck the menu monoliths of barbecue and chicken-fried steak. But that’s exactly what chef-owners Randy Allred and Edward Harvey are doing at Randy’s of Wildorado, their restaurant on Interstate 40 some fifteen
ORIENT EXCESS What a piece of work: towering walls draped in burgundy velvet, colossal silver candelabra, track lighting worthy of The Phantom of the Opera—I fully expected the servers to burst into song. Its name an amalgam of “dragon” and “lion,” The Drálion is exploiting Dallas’ culinary trend du jour,
MAKING WAVESWhen the Oceanaire Seafood Room steamed into port in Dallas last November, I felt like standing on the dock and waving hello—the only things missing were a sea breeze, paper streamers, and a brass band. Although the place is the third national location of a high-end Minneapolis chain, Texas
In our annual roundup of the restaurants everyone's talking about, you'll find a bare-bones taquería, a bastion of cowboy chic, a snazzy deconsecrated churchand dishes that range from soup (squash blossom) to nuts (toasted cashews with chocolate-swirled bread pudding). Not to mention a little French place in San Antonio that's
BOTTOMS UP It’s a good thing no one ever convinced Hamilton Rousseau that soft drinks would ruin his appetite, rot his teeth, and nuke his health. Otherwise, the cigar-chomping owner of Ifs Ands & Butts might be selling insurance or cell phones instead of the largest variety of exotic, hard-to-find
EDIBLE ART I had braced myself for crowds the Sunday I visited the new Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth. But, no—I breezed through the galleries, only to come to an abrupt halt outside Café Modern, the museum’s spacious, sunlight-filled restaurant. Joining the fast-moving queue, I soon found myself sitting
Sharon Hage is chef at the reputable York Street restaurant in Dallas.
HAPPY TRAIL TO YOU Do something different for Valentine’s Day: Nibble and tipple your way across Central Texas on the fourth annual Hill Country Wine Lovers’ Trail. Fourteen of the area’s wineries have joined together to offer a variety of wine-and-food tastings, lunches, and dinners for Valentine’s weekend, February 14
PASS THE PEAS, PLEASE We have a friend—an all-grown-up adult friend, mind you—whose mother won’t let her leave the New Year’s table without downing 365 black-eyed peas (gulp!). That’s one seed of the lucky legume for each day of the upcoming year. But even if you have trouble swallowing this
SEEING STARS Thank heaven the Riviera Grill has finally left that tatty suburban location and moved into glittering new digs in downtown Houston. The sleek Sam Houston Hotel is the perfect setting for chef-owner John Sheely’s inspired French and Italian cuisine. At dinner, the menu showcases dishes like velvety grilled
ELITE MEAT Texas caterer Tom Perini was thrilled enough when he was asked to throw a barbecue for Russian president Vladimir Putin in Crawford last year. He never dreamed that ten months later he would be touring Moscow and St. Petersburg, teaching Russian chefs how to cook beef. “For President
’S WONDERFUL, ‘S MARFALOUS Until this year, folks who found themselves in Marfa at mealtime had a choice of tacos or tacos (oh, wait—you could also get a burger). This summer, the options increased exponentially, which is to say that there is now a fine-dining option in this Big Bend-area
I’M JUST MAD ABOUT SAFFRON I know I’m in the company of grown-ups when I can say “tapas bar” and nobody feels compelled to crack, “What? You ate at a topless bar?” At the moment, my favorite tapas bar is San Antonio’s Saffron, a casual, three-month-old spot done up in
Talavera tiles, tacos árabes—and mole mania.
THE REAL DEAL In 1902 Dell and Charlie Wunsche built a small saloon and hotel in Spring, a wide spot in the road north of Houston, never dreaming that their modest enterprise would last long enough to celebrate a centennial. Score one for longevity: On October 18, 19, and 20
BACK TO THE FUTURE I had no idea how much I was yearning to eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a Victorian dining room until the 1886 Cafe and Bakery opened in Austin’s Driskill Hotel, a mere block from my office. I’ve been all but boarding there since August. Early
Pears stand in for the traditional accompaniment of apples in this pork chop recipe. Hot sauce gives it a proper Texan touch.
This recipe for shrimp sautéed in a garlic-and-chipotle-flavored oil will get your mojo working.
Serving three of Houston's immigrant cuisinesIndian, Japanese, or Vietnamesethese restaurants put culinary adventure on the menu.
YOU GO, HUGO For two solid months, every time I checked on the much-anticipated opening of Hugo’s in Houston, I got variations on the same answer: “Oh, we’re so sorry, but there’s going to be a wait; we’ve run into more construction problems.” I sniffed disaster lurking. Finally, in July,
Chef Michael Marshall creates a light dessert that is not as sweet as you would think.
RED ALL OVER Medina is minuscule—one main street, a couple hundred residents, a dozen or so stores—but during the International Apple Festival on Saturday, August 3, the town will be happily overrun by apple bobbers, bagpipers, balloon blowers, puppeteers, clowns, arts and crafts sellers, and 18,000 visitors. In midsummer, apples
GAZING AND GRAZING No one drives all the way up to the McDonald Observatory, on top of Mount Locke in far West Texas, just to eat. But astronomy buffs have a treat in store if they happen to wander into the StarDate Café. Not only is its menu of quesadillas,
KEEPING UP APPEARANCES Like a jet-setter back from a vacation on the Côte d’Azur, the Riviera has reopened after an intensive two-week remodeling job looking not just rested but ten years younger. The exterior of the old-guard Dallas restaurant has been painted butter yellow, new fabrics brighten banquettes and chairs,
Pork Loin1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns 4 center-cut boneless pork loin chops, up to 1 inch thick 2 tablespoons olive oil salt to tasteMix coriander and peppercorns together and toast in a sauté pan over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the coriander
6 cups chicken stock 1 bouillon cube (optional, if stock needs more seasoning) 2 large avocados, cut in half (remove pits and scoop out flesh) corn tortilla squares, fried crisp for garnish (optional) chopped fresh chives for garnish (optional)Place 2 cups stock in blender, add avocado, and blend to a
LALAPALOUZA When I heard that erstwhile caterer Lou Lambert was opening a restaurant on Austin’s South Congress Avenue—a popular haute-funk shopping district—I kept my fingers crossed for a place with good value, good vibes, and good food. Lambert’s has delivered on all those fronts. Entrées are $11 to $20 (most
This cool onion and bean salad makes a substantial appetizer or can be combined with bread and cold cuts to make a light main course.
Plenty of buzz and a distinctive menu couldn't keep Austin's Star Canyon from closing after just fourteen months. I didn't see it coming, but now I know one recipe for recipe for failure.
Growing Their Own Wordsworth went gaga over his “host of golden daffodils.” Me, I dig herb gardens, especially the parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme cultivated by an array of restaurants across Texas. The Eastside Cafe in Austin (2113 Manor Road, 512-476-5858) is famous for its bountiful third-acre backyard garden of
Minimal to the Max “The only time we ever had to close early was when rain was blowing horizontally into the kitchen,” says Naylene Dillingham-Stolzer. That will happen when your kitchen is a concrete slab with a roof, a few propane burners, two refrigerators, and some prep tables. But scant
Massimo to the Max Massimo Pallottelli, the Roman chef who brought San Antonio its most authentic Italian restaurant, now has new digs that match the quality of his menu. Slickly dramatic, Massimo Ristorante Italiano uses every design trick in the book to seduce you: walls painted a deep, tawny gold;
Memphis-Style Barbecued Pork Shoulderone 4- to 5-pound pork butt or shoulder roast The South Shall Rub Again [see below] Memphis Mop, optional [see below] Tennessee-Style Barbecue Sauce [see below] 8 to 10 sandwich buns, optional Red pepper sauce, such as Tabasco or Texas Pete, optional1. Sprinkle a generous layer of
These Vietnamese summer rolls are from Blowfish in Arlington. They are light, refreshing, and perfect for a hot-weather appetizer.
‘Cue Up The Smoke Gods are smiling: May marks the publication of two barbecue cookbooks by Texas authors. The best metaphor for Dotty Griffith’s book, Celebrating Barbecue: The Ultimate Guide to America’s 4 Regional Styles of ‘Cue (Simon and Schuster), is a savory four-meat platter. The
Huge apple pies, a Japanese submarine, handmade soapsand a dressed flea.
The Smell Of Yummy Here are my top five reasons to visit the Scented Geranium, a cool new Vietnamese cafe in Dallas owned by Sony Nguyen. Reason number five: The decor—minimalist and edgy, with walls painted chartreuse, lavender, aquamarine, and candy pink. Reason number four: The music—a soothing amalgam of
