The carts go around and around, delivering steaming platters and bamboo boxes filled with sumptuous morsels: baked barbecued pork folls, fried taro dumplings, shrimp pancakes, wonderful eggplant thingies stuffed with some sort of minced shrimp–we were so mesmerized that we hardly noticed an hour and a half had passed. Dim Sum is Chinese brunch, for you youngsters who haven’t tried it yet, and instead of you going to the food, the food comes to you. At Fortune, the rolling carts are wheeled through the room, making the circuit until they’re depleted, then going back to the big, busy kitchen for more. You choose by pointing, a helpful server puts it on your table, you devour it. The portions are designed for, usually, three to share. And they’re all small, so you have a variety. It’s quite jolly, lots of fun if you have friends in town for the holidays. I can’t think of a better dim sum in Austin, certainly not one with this much variety. (And if you’re a native of China, or just adventurous, you can get the serious stuff like chicken feet in special sauce or beef tripe with ginger and scallion. The last sounds like Chinese menudo to me–bet it cures a hangover.)