Department store restaurants are usually an afterthought, but the sassy, classy dining room in Houston’s Saks Fifth Avenue (5115 Westheimer, in the Galleria) is a destination in and of itself. Chef Frédéric Perrier—who trained under French legends Paul Bocuse and Georges Blanc—has tinkered with classic dishes to create fusion gems such as these reimagined Vietnamese spring rolls. Instead of the usual minced filling, they come with an inner layer of fresh spinach wrapped around luscious pink salmon. The ebony-hued dipping sauce of soy, honey, and ginger lends a visual exclamation point that turns the combination into culinary couture.

Try this recipe for Crispy Salmon and Spinach Spring Rolls from Chef Frédéric Perrier, Grille 5115’s, Houston.