Texas barbecue, the classic version of which is found primarily in Central Texas and distinguished by its use of beef brisket and its indirect smoking method, is superior to all other regional varieties of barbecue. This is an incontrovertible fact. However, the state boasts tremendous variety of barbecue styles, from the cabrito pits of South Texas to the sweet tangy ribs of East Texas. Over the years, Texas Monthly has written about them all. In our first barbecue story, “The World’s Best Barbecue is in Taylor, Texas. Or is it Lockhart?” Griffin Smith Jr. wrote that, “at first blush, the East Texas chopped pork sandwich with hot sauce has little in common with the slab of Central Texas beef. . . . The emphasis in Central Texas is overwhelmingly on the meat itself—sauce, if available at all, is usually just a side dip.”
Central Texas barbecue owes its origins to the meat markets and grocery stores opened in the 1800s by German and Czech immigrants, who brought with them a style of smoking meat over wood with a simple preparation of salt and pepper. “Whatever fresh meat they couldn’t sell, they would smoke and sell as ‘barbecue,’” Katy Vine wrote in her 2012 story “Of Meat and Men.” “As demand grew, the markets evolved into barbecue joints, though the style of service didn’t change much. The meat was still sliced in front of the customer in line and served on butcher paper.”
The most famous of these meat markets became part of a canon—Louie Mueller’s in Taylor, Kreuz Market and Black’s in Lockhart, and City Market in Luling. The late 1990s brought on a subtle change to this lineup. After Kreuz Market’s owner, Edgar “Smitty” Schmidt died, the siblings who inherited the business parted ways. As a result, Kreuz Market moved to another part of town and the original building became Smitty’s. It made the “Best of the Best” barbecue in Texas Monthly’s 2003 round-up (the first in a series supervised by food editor Patricia Sharpe).
The front-runners had become so familiar that when the Texas Monthly staff hit the ground in 2008, for another “Top 50” review of barbecue joints, they were surprised by a completely unknown newcomer: Snow’s BBQ, in Lexington, “a small restaurant open only on Saturdays and only from eight in the morning until whenever the meat runs out, usually around noon.” A year later, in Austin, a little trailer called Franklin BBQ opened, causing such a fever that by the time it opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in the spring of 2011, people slept on the ground overnight for a spot in line.
A shift was underway, highlighted by Vine’s 2012 story: “Whereas the legendary spots of yore had been primarily rural, now the widespread hunger for sublimely smoked meat, coupled with the boon of instantaneous buzz and feedback, made it possible for urban upstarts to enter the scene.”
In this edition of “Where’s the (Goodstock) Beef?” we take a trip to Houston and highlight six of our favorite dishes across Space City.
Whether using lamb, beef, or goat, the cooking method of barbacoa is rooted in pre-Hispanic traditions and set the scene for smoking meat as we know it stateside.
At Goodstock By Nolan Ryan, we believe that a truly great burger–whether it sticks to the basics or goes off the wall to stand out with toppings–must be built on quality local Texas beef.
While Burnet has had great smoked meat, none of the eateries stood the test of time. Here's hoping Warehouse BBQ and Meetery will be around a good long while.
Goodstock by Nolan Ryan believes that a great barbecue experience starts with the highest quality brisket. So if you’ve ever wondered what you could do with the finest Texas beef, check out this list of nine dishes from standout pitmasters using Goodstock.
Established in 1946, this Houston restaurant is keeping the family tradition alive, one piece of fried chicken at a time.
Ramen Tatsu-Ya’s latest addition offers house-made noodles to dip into chili-inspired broth, whose leftovers are meant to be eaten as Frito pie.
Located in North Richland Hills above the bustle of US Highway 820 is an unmistakable monument to those olden days—the newest location of Sweetie Pie’s Ribeyes.
The Southern Foodways Symposium, held last weekend in Mississippi, made barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn reflect on the industry and his career.
Texas barbecue has changed a lot in the last two decades, much for the better.
At one location, you'll find Desert Oak Barbecue's classic menu. At the other, it's breakfast, coffee, burritos, and burgers using trimmings.
It may seem surprising, but this Midwestern state is excelling at brisket, ribs, and more, all inspired by Texas’s most famous joints.
It’s been two years since the pandemic sparked a huge surge in purchases of outdoor cooking equipment, and with a new summer in full swing it’s no surprise that the relatively new crop of grillmasters and those of us who have enjoyed grilling and smoking for years are spending weekends
Up in Smoke BBQ closed its Midland location after the 2020 bust, but it has resurfaced three hours east, in Early, with a new meat market.
With more space and help, the Stearnses have developed a new brisket recipe and house-made sausages to take Jay’s BBQ Shack to the next level.
B. Cooper Barbecue is still relatively unknown after two-plus years in business, but it’s serving dishes worth discovering, including Mangalitsa pork ribs.
The Fort Worth–based company has come out with another unusual, savory beer, this time in collaboration with Weatherford’s T&D Barbecue.
Bud’s House of Meat in Houston took on the tradition of combining meat counter and restaurant, and it’s one of the few in the area still doing it.
Wade and Becky Brewer provide their small town of Buffalo, located between two major hubs, with delicious smoked meat at W. B. Custom Cooking.
Corsicana-based pitmaster Kevin Bludso shares his family's fascinating story—alongside a multitude of recipes—in a new cookbook.
Stephen Joseph of Riverport Bar-B-Cue in Jefferson serves Lebanese potato salad and spiced spareribs, and he hopes to incorporate more of his family’s recipes.
From the Ex-Wife to the Mother Clucker, the sandwiches at Stanley’s Famous Pit Barbecue in Tyler hint at some legendary tales.
The Texas-style ribs, crispy onion rings, and lemon squares at Earnest B’s BBQ will win over even the most skeptical ’cue fans.
These seven books cover the basics of smoking and grilling while livening things up with recipes for smoked duck lasagna and key lime cake.
Smoked jerk chicken, Trini pepper sauce, and fry bread sandwiches shine alongside Willie Meshack's classic Texas-style meats in Plano.
Winner, winner, chicken dinner—and that’s exactly what you should order at barbecue joints across the state that smoke theirs to perfection.
Even though Pizzitola's—formerly known as Shepherd Drive Bar-B-Q—embraces tradition, the Houston establishment isn't afraid of modernity.
Whether used in a sauce or served alongside a tray of meat, strong brews are finding their way back to Texas joints.
The new San Antonio joint reflects the flavors of the city with menu items like Mexican-influenced mac and cheese and queso fundido sausage.
The West Texas food truck serves road trip–worthy brisket and ribs.
The Odessa staple was started by a musician tired of the night life. Now, his son and grandson carry on the tradition by staying "open and hoping."
While most joints proclaim there's just salt and pepper in their rubs, there is a key ingredient that even Aaron Franklin himself fesses up to using.
House-made sausages and oak-smoked brisket help this joint—which recently debuted its brick-and-mortar—stand out from the local crowd.
What started as a way to raise funds for medical bills became a purposeful endeavor for Ramiro Vargas and his family in Edinburg.
Tortillas are just as common as white bread at these Alamo City joints, which excel at all manner of smoked meats, including chicken and lamb.
After moving to the burbs, this barbecue joint is getting more adventurous with menu items like brisket enchiladas and fideo.
Located behind a coffee shop, this RGV trailer serves massive tacos overflowing with brisket and other hearty meats and toppings.
The Tomball joint puts a delicious twist on the classic dessert with a fresh, hot waffle. And oh yeah, there’s barbecue, too!
Pitmasters have long used trimmings for sausage, but burgers—smoked and griddled—are easier ways to make the most out of expensive brisket.
Even though Marcus McNac of Crimson Creek Smokehouse in Austin claims brisket is not his thing, he still serves a mind-blowing tomahawk steak.
Texas has it beat when it comes to beef-based barbecue. But a few upstart pitmasters are hoping to change KC's reputation.
Eating meat—even when you’re practicing a plant-based diet—is every Texan’s right.
Polish off hearty chili and pickle-brined chicken with a latte at this Central Texas coffee shop turned barbecue joint.
Since this city hosts the State Fair of Texas, it’s no wonder Dallas barbecue joints go over the top with their ’cue.
Yes, there are at least 100 very good barbecue joints in Texas.
Move over, potato salad—there’s a new starch in town.
A funny thing happened on the way to the barbecue joint . . .
In fact, some of the best joints in Texas are working hard to create innovative, and downright delicious, concoctions.
Across Texas, fusion barbecue is making a move—and vegetarian barbecue isn't far behind.
An Arlington man wonders if his penny-wise buddy is being barbecue-foolish.
