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January 24, 2017

Smoked in Texas: Oysters Gilhooley at Gilhooley’s

Oyster shells crackled under the car tires as I pulled into Gilhooley’s in San Leon. The parking lot is paved with them, and a pile taller than me rose like a dune at one end of the parking lot. A storm was rolling into the small town on the Gulf

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

Shrimp Cocktail Huatulco

This gorgeous seafood cocktail is named after Huatulco, the impossibly beautiful seaside resort in the Mexican state of Oaxaca.16 large shrimp, peeled and deveined (leave tails on) salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 6 fresh tomatillos, husked and diced 1/4 onion, minced 1 ancho chile, stemmed, seeded, and

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January 20, 2013

State Fare: Neil Doherty’s Whiskey-Cured Salmon

Neil Doherty, the executive chef at the Marker in Houston’s Adam’s Mark Hotel (2900 Briarpark Drive) was something of a child prodigy. By 21, he was already a head chef in his native Ireland, where he learned the value of cooking with local ingredients such as seaweed and nettles. He

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

State Fare: Warm Lobster Tacos

Tacos go uptown in the hands of Dean Fearing. All it takes is a little lobster, jalapeño-spiked cheese, fresh spinach, and Fearing’s snappy yellow-tomato salsa. A signature dish of Dallas’ Mansion on Turtle Creek (2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard), these tony tacos are featured in De Gustibus Presents the Great Cooks’

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January 20, 2013

Tuna With Wasabi Mayo Ginger Slaw

Ginger Slaw2 tablespoons chopped prepared pickled ginger 2 tablespoons juice from pickled ginger 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 cup rice wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil 1/2 medium head red cabbage, thinly sliced 1/4 head napa or savoy cabbage, thinly sliced 1 carrot, peeled and thinly julienned 1 red bell pepper,

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

State Fare: Tortilla-Wrapped Fish

Austin’s beau monde has had a serious crush on Jeffrey’s (1204 West Lynn, Austin) ever since the intimate, unpretentious restaurant opened in 1975. This standard-setting establishment takes a maverick approach to gourmet dining: Executive chef Raymond Tatum, a self-taught cook with a rebel streak, specializes in improvising provocative Southwestern fare

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

State Fare: Swordfish and Chipotle-Mango Sauce

Chef Oscar Mejia’s splashy tropical creations give a summer feel year-round to the menu at the Merchant Prince in Galveston. Located just off the soaring lobby of the beautifully restored 1879 Tremont House hotel (2300 Ship’s Mechanic Row), the intimate restaurant showcases Mejia’s idiosyncratic blend of Caribbean and Southwestern culinary

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

Southwestern Crab Cakes

From Cooking: “I, Piscivore” by Gary Cartwright, in the September 1987 issue of Texas Monthly.1 large egg2 tablespoons mayonnaise, crème fraîche, or sour cream2 teaspoons Dijon mustard or the hotter Louisiana Creole mustardPinch of cayenne pepper1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepperPinch of salt1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce1 pound

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January 20, 2013

State Fare: Soft-Shell Crabs with Moqueca Sauce

Resolutely international, Austin’s Clarksville (1205 N. Lamar) draws on a world of culinary influences, from the Far East to South America. A creation that melds the traditions of two continents is the irresistible fried soft-shell crabs in moqueca sauce. The dish originated in northeastern India as pokeka, a seafood stew.

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Food & Drink|
January 20, 2013

State Fare

At Joey’s (4217 Oak Lawn) in Dallas, the concept of cheesecake has undergone a paradigm shift: Restaurateur Joey Vallone’s version is (1) not sweet and (2) not a dessert. To create this savory variation on a theme, chef Michael Wahl blends cream cheese with mascarpone, then folds in jumbo shrimp

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

Shrimp, Lobster, and Crab Cheesecake

Cheesecake1/2 pound cooked Maine lobster 1/2 pound lump crabmeat 1/2 pound cooked jumbo shrimp 1 pound mascarpone cheese 2 pounds cream cheese 5 eggs 1 1/4 cups flour 1/2 bunch scallions, diced Kosher salt and white pepper to tastePreheat oven to 250 degrees.Cut cream cheese into smallish chunks. Allow both

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

Shrimp Pulao

3 cups long-grain rice (preferably basmati) 1 large onion 1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled 6 garlic cloves 5 tablespoons peanut oil 1 large tomato, finely chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons poppy seeds Scant 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 3/4 teaspoon each of cumin powder, ground coriander, and Indian red chile powder (or cayenne pepper)

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

State Fare: Sesame-Crusted Scallops

In 1980, when Armando Miranda took his first job in America as a line cook, he barely knew a muffin from a mousse. That has changed. In his peregrinations through prominent Houston restaurants, including the River Cafe, he taught himself to cook. Even today he’s a free spirit. “I don’t

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

State Fare: Seared Halibut

For more than a year, Houston’s cafe society has been holding its breath in anticipation of the scheduled September reopening of Tony’s (1801 Post Oak Boulevard). Not only has the interior been lavishly remodeled to suggest a restaurant on the Italian Riviera, but owner Tony Vallone and chef Mark Cox

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

Sautéed Shrimp on Cannellini Beans

Radicchio Walnut Salad9 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (preferably from Modena) 2/3 cup sugar 1 cup walnut halves 2 heads radicchio, coarsely chopped or torn 3 ounces Gorgonzola, finely crumbled salt and pepper to tasteWhisk oil and vinegar until thick and season with salt and pepper. Set

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

Salmon With Saffron Potatoes

Recipe from chef and owner Louise Lamensdorf, Bistro Louise, Fort Worth.Grilled Salmon4 teaspoons coarse sea salt 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons black pepper 1 cup fresh mint, chopped 4 six-ounce salmon filetsMix first 4 ingredients, rub on salmon, and marinate 2 to 24 hours. Grill (or sauté) filets for 3

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January 20, 2013

State Fare: Roasted Red Snapper on Risotto

Chef Hervé Glin is a big man. “I love to eat,” he says, wryly surveying his own bulk. He also likes to feed people, which he does at his clubby Cité Grill at 5860 Westheimer in Houston. His fondness for seafood and many of his culinary ideas come from his

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

Moose Cafe’s Cedar-Plank Shrimp

Scalloped Tarragon Potatoes1 pound red potatoes, skins on, sliced very thin 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 tablespoon fresh chopped tarragon Salt and white pepper to tasteToss all ingredients together. On a lightly greased sheet pan arrange potatoes in a spiral form, overlapping each slice, to make

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

State Fare: Masa-Battered Shrimp

A backpacking adventure after college led Michael Bomberg in a different direction. He never intended to make a living as a chef, but a trek through Western Europe, Africa, Asia, and the Middle East gave him food for thought.Now Bomberg is guiding San Antonio’s Anaqua Grill (555 S. Alamo) through

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

State Fare: Lemon Sole With Champagne Sauce

Thierry Burkle’s L’Etoile is a guiding light in French country cooking. The smart neighborhood brasserie succeeds because of a constellation of moderately priced, well-thought-out offerings, including this lemon sole.The mild fish is perfectly suited to a special-occasion dressing up. With a bread-crumb crust as a toasty counterpoint, the moist and

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January 20, 2013

State Fare: Grilled Swordfish Club Sandwich

From Austin’s new Coyote Cafe (612 W. Sixth) comes the classiest club sandwich you’ll ever eat, and quite possibly the best. Offered as an occasional special at the Texas spin-off of Santa Fe’s original Coyote Cafe, the sandwich makes some key substitutions: Chile-seasoned grilled swordfish stands in for boring old

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

Grilled Scallops

Scallops20 large (U-10) 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 lime, sliced 8 sprigs cilantroRinse scallops in cold water and remove small muscle attached to side. Place in medium bowl with olive oil, lime, and cilantro. Marinate in refrigerator for 2 hours. Just before serving, cook on a very hot grill until

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

Grilled Pompano, Sea Scallops and Crayfish

Grilled Pompano in Beurre Rouge With Sea Scallops and Crayfish3 shallots, chopped fine 1/2 pound softened butter plus 3 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup each of red and white wine Juice of 1 lemon 1/2 cup heavy cream Salt and white pepper, to taste 1/2 to 3/4 pound precooked crayfish tail

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Recipes|
January 20, 2013

State Fare: Grilled Pacific Salmon With Soy-Wasabi Sauce

Spinning in its own distinctive orbit, Austin’s Mars has created a stylishly multicultural menu, with Middle Eastern, Pacific Rim, and Mediterranean cooking styles all getting their due. This grilled salmon in a velvety sauce punched up with Japanese horseradish demonstrates how the small, trendy restaurant makes culinary worlds collide. Owner

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