Fishing Expedition Blowfish is blowing my mind. I’m sitting in this jazzy, five-month-old sushi bar in an Arlington strip center looking at a menu that’s as up-to-date as anything in Dallas or Houston. You want pure raw fish? A wide array is offered—tuna, yellowtail, eel, conch, plus specials like Hawaiian white tuna. You want one of those tricked-up things I call yuppie rolls? Go for it. I almost ordered the Mexican roll, with avocado, shrimp, smelt roe, and red chile sauce (¡ay Chihuahua!) but was persuaded by an infinitely patient waitress to try the special “wasabi crusted salmon roll.” It came out looking almost nouvelle, a crunchy, fanned-out tempura creation with three sauces: wasabi cream, a soy glaze, and aïoli. It was good, in an over-the-top way. Actually, my favorite dish was the Korean steak, a hunk o’ meat that is first grilled, then braised in a fantastic gingery broth that suggests an Asian version of French onion soup. Who whips up this stuff? Co-owners Tommy Le and Kenzo Tran, two of the dudes in Hawaiian shirts behind the sushi bar.