With its globe-trotting menu and upscale new digs on a peaceful stretch of the San Antonio River (203 S. St. Mary’s), Biga on the Banks has made the big time while maintaining its attention to detail. Chef-owner Bruce Auden is at the top of his form with dishes like this virtuoso sea bass creation. Swathed in fresh spinach leaves, accented with salty Spanish serrano ham, and baked in leaves of fragile filo pastry, the fish anchors a terrific ensemble cast consisting of creamy braised leeks, a deep-flavored Pinot Noir shallot sauce, and a playful dab of sweet tomato jam. Even the toughest critics will be dazzled.

Try this recipe for Filo-Wrapped Sea Bass on Mustard-Braised Leeks from Biga on the Banks, San Antonio.